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ABS versus polycarbonate

These two look like neighbors on a requirements list — enclosure, hot bed, warping — and they are not neighbors on a temperature chart. PC holds its shape past 100 C where ABS is already softening, and it asks for a hotend 40 C hotter to get there.

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The picks, ranked

The picks, ranked
#ProductBest forScorePrice
1
Polymaker PolyMax PCPolymaker PolyMax PCThe upgrade is heat resistance and toughness. Everything else about printing it is harder than ABS, and the annealing step is part of the job.250-270 C nozzle, chamber 70-100 C
When the part sees real heat8.6/10$38.99 on Amazon#ad disclosure · price as of September 21, 2026
2
Polymaker PolyLite ABSPolymaker PolyLite ABSCheaper, easier and smoothable in acetone vapor, which PC is not. If the part never gets hot, the upgrade buys you nothing.230-255 C nozzle, 95-110 C bed
Acetone smoothing and cost7.5/10$17.10 on Amazon#ad disclosure · price as of September 21, 2026
3
Polymaker PolyLite ASAPolymaker PolyLite ASAABS requirements, ABS toughness, plus sunlight resistance. Most parts people consider PC for are really ASA parts.220-275 C, UV and chemical resistance
The answer most people actually want8.4/10$24.49 on Amazon#ad disclosure · price as of September 21, 2026
4
eSUN PC-HTeSUN PC-HTIf the deciding number is the heat deflection temperature, this is the one with the highest published figure. It needs a 300 C hotend to print.114 C heat deflection
Above 100 C specifically8.2/10$28.49 on Amazon#ad disclosure · price as of September 21, 2026
5
Overture PETGOverture PETGNeither material on this page works in a draft. A PETG part printed properly beats an ABS or PC part that warped off the plate.No enclosure requiredSkip this
If you have no enclosure at all6.0/10$13.22 on Amazon#ad disclosure · price as of September 21, 2026

Live prices verified September 21, 2026. Scores are our own fit rating for the stated use, not a measurement and not a customer rating.

Two printed engineering parts side by side for comparison
Two printed engineering parts side by side for comparison.

The short answer

Buy polycarbonate when the part has to survive above roughly 90 C or take repeated impact. Buy ABS when you want acetone smoothing or the cheapest enclosed-printer material. Buy ASA instead of either when the part goes outside, which is more often than people expect.

Heat: the only gap that matters

Prusa publish 230 to 255 C at the nozzle for ABS with an enclosure recommended Prusa Research. SUNLU publish a 101 +/- 2 C heat deflection temperature for their polycarbonate SUNLU and eSUN publish 114 C for PC-HT eSUN. ABS softens meaningfully below that, which is why a dashboard bracket or a part near a motor is a PC job and a bookshelf bracket is not.

The full cross-material ranking, including where PETG and ASA fall, is on most heat resistant filament.

What each one asks of the printer

Both warp; one punishes you harder

Warping comes from uneven contraction as a part cools Prusa Research, and both materials shrink enough to lift corners. The difference is recovery: an ABS part that lifts can often be rescued with a brim, a slower first layer and a clean plate. A PC part that lifts usually also delaminates, because the same cold draft that pulled the corner up weakened every layer bond above it.

That is why Polymaker’s advice to preheat the chamber through the bed for 10 to 15 minutes before printing matters more on PC than the equivalent advice does on ABS Polymaker.

Strength, and the direction nobody measures

PC is the tougher material: SUNLU publish 50 +/- 3 MPa tensile and 35 +/- 5 kJ/m2 impact in the X-Y plane SUNLU. But eSUN publish both directions for PC-HT — 13.6 kJ/m2 in X-Y against 2.4 kJ/m2 in Z eSUN — and that ratio applies to ABS too.

A PC part loaded across its layers is not five times stronger than an ABS part loaded along them. Orientation outranks material more often than the spec sheet suggests, which is the argument made at length on strongest filament.

Why ASA keeps interrupting this comparison

ASA prints in a 220 to 275 C window with the same enclosure expectation as ABS, and Prusa list UV and chemical resistance as its noted properties Prusa Research. For the outdoor bracket, the mower part, the antenna mount — the jobs people reach for ABS or PC to do — ASA is usually the right answer, and it is easier than either.

The ABS side of that argument is on ABS versus ASA. The PC side is simpler: if the part is not going to exceed ASA’s roughly 93 C rating Prusa Research, polycarbonate is a harder print for no benefit.

Cost and what you will actually use

PC spools cost noticeably more per kilogram than ABS, and the failure rate while you learn the material is part of the price. Budget for at least one warped part and one delaminated one. If that prospect is unappealing, the honest move is ASA now and PC when a part genuinely needs it.

Per-kilogram figures for every material we track are on filament price per kg, and the full PC buying guide is on best polycarbonate filament.

Every pick, in detail

01

Polymaker PolyMax PC

Polymaker

When the part sees real heat · 8.6/10 our fit score

Polymaker PolyMax PC

The best-documented polycarbonate to learn on, because Polymaker publish the annealing step rather than leaving you to discover it.

Published specifications for Polymaker PolyMax PC
Nozzle250-270 C, all-metal hotend Polymaker
Bed90-105 C Polymaker
ChamberNeeded, 70-100 C Polymaker
Drying75 C for 6 h Polymaker
Annealing90 C for 2 h, straight after printing Polymaker

What it does well

  • Polymaker publish the whole process including chamber preheat and annealing
  • Toughness and heat resistance at the top of what a desktop printer can produce

What it does not

  • The enclosure is listed as needed, not recommended: an open printer cannot do this
  • 0.75 kg spool at a premium price, and the learning curve costs a few failed parts
$38.99 on Amazon#ad disclosure · price as of September 21, 2026Manufacturer page
02

Polymaker PolyLite ABS

Polymaker

Acetone smoothing and cost · 7.5/10 our fit score

Polymaker PolyLite ABS

ABS worth printing only if you already have an enclosure and ventilation. Without both, buy ASA or PETG instead.

Published specifications for Polymaker PolyLite ABS
Nozzle230-255 C (ABS range) Prusa Research
Bed95-110 C Prusa Research
EnclosureRecommended Prusa Research
ShrinkageAbout 1-2% after cooling Prusa Research

What it does well

  • Acetone smoothable, which no other common material on this site is
  • High heat resistance for the price

What it does not

  • Prusa's ABS page lists "potentially dangerous fumes (styrene)" and calls a well-ventilated room important
  • Significant warping; large flat parts are a fight without a heated chamber
$17.10 on Amazon#ad disclosure · price as of September 21, 2026Manufacturer page
03

Polymaker PolyLite ASA

Polymaker

The answer most people actually want · 8.4/10 our fit score

Polymaker PolyLite ASA

The right answer for a part that lives outside. It is ABS that does not go yellow and chalky in sunlight.

Published specifications for Polymaker PolyLite ASA
Nozzle220-275 C (ASA range) Prusa Research
Bed90-110 C Prusa Research
Temperature resistanceUp to about 93 C Prusa Research
EnclosureRecommended Prusa Research

What it does well

  • UV resistance is the entire point and it is real — Prusa contrast it directly with ABS, whose outdoor parts "turn yellowish and more brittle over time"
  • Warps less and smells less than ABS at the same temperatures

What it does not

  • Needs an enclosure and a hot bed; this is not a material for an open printer in a cold room
  • More expensive per kilogram than the PETG that would do the job for many outdoor parts
$24.49 on Amazon#ad disclosure · price as of September 21, 2026Manufacturer page
04

eSUN PC-HT

eSUN

Above 100 C specifically · 8.2/10 our fit score

eSUN PC-HT

The highest published heat-deflection figure here, and the only spool that publishes its Z-axis impact strength alongside the flattering number.

Published specifications for eSUN PC-HT
Heat deflection114 C eSUN
Nozzle290-300 C eSUN
Bed100-110 C, enclosed chamber eSUN
Impact X-Y vs Z13.6 vs 2.4 kJ/m2 IZOD eSUN
Drying70 C for more than 6 h eSUN

What it does well

  • Publishes both impact axes, which is the honest way to describe an FDM part
  • 114 C heat deflection is the highest figure on this site outside filled composites

What it does not

  • 290 to 300 C needs a hotend many printers cannot reach safely
  • Z-axis impact strength is roughly a fifth of the in-plane figure, so orientation is everything
$28.49 on Amazon#ad disclosure · price as of September 21, 2026Manufacturer page
05

Overture PETG

OvertureSkip this

If you have no enclosure at all · 6.0/10 our fit score

Overture PETG

The PETG most people should start with: forgiving on temperature, widely stocked, and cheap enough to learn on.

Published specifications for Overture PETG
Diameter1.75 mm, published tolerance +/- 0.02 mm
Nozzle215-270 C (PETG range) Prusa Research
Bed70-90 C Prusa Research
Drying65 C / 7 h Overture

What it does well

  • Overture publish an explicit drying temperature and time for their own PETG
  • Tolerant of a wide temperature window, which matters because PETG punishes a bad guess with stringing

What it does not

  • Strings more than the premium spools at the same settings
  • Bonds hard to smooth PEI — Prusa's PETG page says "Do not print on the smooth PEI sheet as the adhesion may be too strong"
$13.22 on Amazon#ad disclosure · price as of September 21, 2026Manufacturer page

Common questions

Is polycarbonate stronger than ABS?

Tougher and far more heat resistant, yes. SUNLU publish 50 +/- 3 MPa tensile and 35 +/- 5 kJ/m2 impact strength for their PC, and heat deflection figures of 101 C against ABS softening well below that. The caveat is that layer direction still dominates: eSUN publish 13.6 kJ/m2 in X-Y against 2.4 kJ/m2 in Z.

Can I print polycarbonate on the same printer as ABS?

Only if the hotend is all metal and reaches 250 C or more, and the chamber can hold 70 to 100 C. Polymaker list both as requirements rather than suggestions. A printer that manages ABS in an enclosure is often one hotend away from PC.

Which is easier to print, ABS or PC?

ABS, clearly. It runs cooler, tolerates a merely recommended enclosure, and smooths in acetone if the surface disappoints. PC needs a hotter hotend, a genuinely closed chamber, a bed adhesive and an annealing step afterward.

Should I just use ASA instead?

For most parts, yes. ASA has ABS's requirements, adds UV resistance, and is rated to about 93 C. Polycarbonate earns its place when the part exceeds that, or when impact toughness is the whole point.

Sources

Scooter M. · Enthusiast

I'm Scooter, an enthusiast who's genuinely into this. I read the manuals, compile the published specs, and do the math. No lab coat.

About · How we choose · Last reviewed